Marc Jacobs Fall 2011
For the past few seasons Marc has opted out of showing at the tents and instead walked his collections and New York State Armory. For this collection, which showcased padded white columns down the runway, Marilyn Manson, and rubber(!), the armory seems like the perfect locations.
Whereas, last season Jacob’s seemed to channeling the light, flowy charm of a summer in the 70’s, the season was about Edwardian structure, but still with that bit of perversion that makes Jacob’s collection his own.
If you are interested in Marc’s work, it is worth it to visit a style.com or one of it’s many peers and see this collection walk. The stills do not do the clothes justice.
The strict structure of collection almost have a dress-code type a feel, that I felt for the first time yesterday in Thom Browne. As the girls walk down the white washed runway, their gate is biting and spastic by the binding hold of the rubber skirt, really giving the illusion of a haughty British schoolmarm on her way to work.
There really was a sense of British pomposity in this collection, with Jacob’s kind of downtown irreverence intertwined. Between his work at Vuitton, and his collaborations with Takashi Murakami, England might be the only fashion capital that he has not put his spin on.
Besides the swath of graphic polka dots, that were on everything from the tights, to the skirts, to the jackets (sometimes at the same time), the accessories are were we saw Jacob’s classic colors show. His haphazard way of styling his collection came through, when a knobby pink and black bag was thrown together with a tailored grey skirt and jacket, or a patent leather wedge boot was worn with wide-legged tweed trouser.
The dynamo designer came to take his bow wearing a cobalt rubber shirt under his sweater, as the fearless leader his new take on what women (will always) want.
